Lose Yourself in Luang Prabang

Want to travel the world but don’t know where to start? As part of my Beached Blonde Travels series I’ll be regaling you with travel tips and stories from some of the distant shores (and some local hotspots) that I’ve been lucky enough to adventure through. First up, I travel to Luang Prabang, the ancient town in northern Laos.

Ripe, lush greenery, bright bougainvillea and fragrant frangipani, and the burnt-sienna robes of monks and novices greet me in a rainbow flash of colour as I alight the slow boat on the banks of the Mekong river in Luang Prabang.

It’s a balmy March evening and I have ‘cruised’ for two days down almost 200 miles of the world’s tenth-longest river, watching children play happily on the banks, fishermen hooking their daily catch and water buffalo bathe, as the slow boat meandered down this soupy ribbon of water. Travel to Luang Prabang is often by boat (especially for the more cost conscious traveller), and you’ll find they are high on atmosphere and low on luxury (I had a choice between a hard plastic chair or the wooden floor as a my only seat for nine hours each day), so after two days on board it’s a joy to reach dry land.

Where to stay in Luang Prabang

My home for the next few days is the 3 Nagas hotel in the heart of the old quarter of Luang Prabang. The elegant 15-room boutique hotel comprises three UNESCO World Heritage-listed buildings that are more than a century old. It has been restored using traditional techniques and materials with its exotic-wood floors repolished and traditional ‘torchis’ walls and clay tiles renewed. The 3 Nagas is located in one of the prime spots where locals gather each morning at sunrise to pay alms to the passing monks, something that shouldn’t be missed on a stay in Luang Prabang. Get up before dawn and ask at the hotel for a pot of sticky rice and immerse yourself in this time-honoured Buddhist tradition.

My room is fabulous. It’s the epitome of chic, simple, pared-back luxury and has those two essentials that all weary travellers require: oh-so-needed air-conditioning and a super-comfy bed. The décor is old French colonial style with a smattering of Asian influence ­– lots of dark rosewood juxtaposed with crisp white cotton sheets, specially designed Caruso Lao silk bedspreads, traditional weavings and spinning ceiling fans. As my room is on the ground floor I have my own private patio that leads out to the tranquil garden complete with day loungers, a pretty fishpond, and jackfruit and mango trees which provide some welcome shade. It’s easy to feel pampered and unwind in this cool, peaceful and relaxed retreat.

After my cramped commute to Luang Prabang I am in need of some pampering and so I book an in-room massage to soothe away my aches and pains. The hotel therapist, the fantastic Miss Bevan, recommends the Nuad Bouhaan  (traditional Laos massage) where pressure is applied to reflex points on my hands, feet, back and head to rebalance my body and restore energy levels. It’s just the ticket if you’re feeling frazzled and after an hour of blissful pummelling I’m feeling rejuvenated and ready for dinner at the hotel restaurant Les 3 Nagas, situated in the handsome townhouse right next door.

Here, head chef Sebastian Rubis treats me to a feast of Lao/French fusion cuisine and I slurp up servings of Khaiphaen Jeun (dried Mekong weed with spicy jam and buffalo skin), a regional delicacy that can be seen hanging out to dry in many a local garden; Sine Dod Kwai (dried buffalo with sesame seeds); Yum Salad (Luang Prabang salad with Lao-style sweet dressing) and my personal favourites; an exquisitely delicious Laaps Pedd (minced duck cooked with herbs and mint leaves, served on banana leaves – wow!) and Mhok Paa (steamed fish in coconut mousse and kaffir), all accompanied by black sticky rice that’s best eaten with your hands and washed down with a bottle of French red wine.

The charm of Luang Prabang is not so much in its sights or attractions, but in its mellow mood and easy lifestyle.

Luang Prabang has a diverse and colourful history. It was formerly the capital of a kingdom of the same name, until the communist takeover in 1975. The city was also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. However it’s its ‘Frenchness’ that permeates through the town.

Laos was invaded in the 18th century by French colonialists, and there is still much remaining evidence of the French influence on this landlocked country and laid-back town. As a result, many of the buildings are crumbling French-colonial style mansions with lots of dark wood and shutters. And the local cuisine is not without influence, too – there’s not a street corner in Luang Prabang where you won’t find a stall selling crusty baguettes with any number of toppings, and the scent of fresh bread baking at the bakeries is not the usual smells to tickle the nose in South-East Asia, but it’s a welcome one.

What to do in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is beautifully alluring and is one of the loveliest cities in Asia. It is encircled by mountains and hugged by the confluence of two rivers – the Mekong and Nam Khan and I am struck by how lush and green it is, especially at this time of year when it is very hot and there has been little rain for months. Most of Luang Prabang’s tourist attractions are located in the old quarter where you’ll find myriad stunning gold-painted wats (temples) to explore (Wat Xieng Thong is the most magnificent), the Royal Palace Museum where you can visit the Pha Bang – the gold standing Buddha after which the town is named – and a climb up the 329 steps to the wats on the slopes of Phu Si is well worth the legwork for the superb views out over the city and into the tropical mountains beyond.

Cycling is one of the best ways to enjoy this sleepy town and complementary bikes are available at the 3 Nagas hotel. Or travel South-East Asian style and take a trip out of town in an open-sided truck or boat. Visits to the breathtaking Kuang Si waterfalls or Pak Ou caves are easily doable in an afternoon. But the charm of Luang Prabang is not so much in its sights or attractions, but in its mellow mood and easy lifestyle. It’s a place to slow down and watch the world go by while sipping coffee or red wine. It’s a place I can image staying a long time.

On the main street (Sisavangvong Road) there’s shop after shop selling really good French red wine (a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous Beer Laos that is the drink of choice throughout the rest of the country) and delicious local- and European-style food is available at the many restaurants. The next night I wander through the alleys and side streets and dine out with the locals at a wooden table and bench, which is the ‘restaurant’ area for my chosen stall. Food here is cooked on the street and the smells are heady and tart as I tuck in to barbecued fish stuffed with fragrant herbs, lemongrass and galangal – it’s melt-in-the mouth delicious and costs less than $2.

Volunteer in Luang Prabang

At sundown the Hmong Night Market is the place to visit to load up your shopping bags with authentic Lao textiles, handicrafts, jewellery, mulberry-papery lanterns and souvenirs and is an intriguing way to spend an evening. If you are looking for a way to give back on your travels, the Big Brother Mouse project runs a bookstall at the market. I volunteer here for a fun-filled couple of hours helping out on the stall with fellow travellers Kuba and Greg, and Keo from the project.

Eager to help some more, the next morning we all set off on the bumpy ride to a village in the hills for a book party. At each three-hour party, young authors and artists talk about their work and read from books to children at a village school or meeting place. There’s an art lesson, some outdoor games, and refreshments; then every child gets a free book, nearly always the first book they’ve ever owned, and usually the first fun book they’ve ever read. Finally, the school gets a ‘Swap Box’ where children can trade their book for a new one after the read it. Seeing smiles on these children’s faces as they play, and laugh, and flick through the pages of their new books is priceless. For travellers wanting to help locals learn to speak English, Big Sister Mouse is often looking for volunteers, but you should contact them in advance of your arrival.

When travelling to Luang Prabang (and South East Asia) it is impossible to ignore the poverty that many suffer and to compare the differences of one’s own life to that of the locals. Laos is among the poorest countries in Asia and most of the six million population live in villages in remote areas where kids with runny noses, grubby apparel and timid smiles play in the dusty streets. Many children receive little or no formal schooling and books are a luxury that is too hard for most families to afford. Helping out on a project such as Big Brother Mouse is rewarding and enjoyable, and can make a real difference to local people.

Upon leaving Luang Prabang I look back on my time here with nostalgic wonder. My love for Laos and its people is unrelenting. I have no doubt that I will return to this fabulous land of mountains, mists, untamed natural beauty, and a friendly people who have permeated my soul.

Where are your favourite places to travel? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below.

Opening image @journeytojunipero